Saturday, October 31, 2009

Ignorant Motivation (El Misti Day 1)

I would be easier to outline what we didn´t know about El Misti for the list is far shorter then that of which we did. We didn´t know what 5822 meters was in feet. We didn´t know that the guides carried much of the equipment required for this two day hike. We didn´t know the symptoms of elevation sickness. We didn´t know that 3 people without guides had gotten lost on this trek the previous year. And finally, we didn´t know that this cliff exceeds the elevation of Base Camp One on everest, any point in the continental U.S. and is only 200 feet shy of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Luckily, Ian and I both hold all this knowledge, but the method of education was hands on, head first and jump without looking. We also will never forget that at 19,101 feet, the air only holds half the amount of oxygen compared to that of sea-level.
In full disclosure, the success of our trip was contingent on our short sidedness. We would have had no chance at success if not for our fearless ignorance. We like our general ignorance of the expedition to the night hiking that took place on day two. If we were able to see the summit looming above us, we would have been discourage by our meager progression and suffered certain retreat. Similar to the success of the entire trip, we were motivated by our optimistic ignorance.
As assured by my selective reading of the Lonely Planet Guide book, he first day of hiking was easy. We of course struggled with the acclimation reduce oxygen levels. We forced ourselves to take one deep breath each time we took a step. It seemed to work well. We controlled to the headaches by aggressively gasping for air as we walked. This was successful until about 500 feet below our campsite for the first night. That is when no amount of desperate gasps could prevent tighten of the vice against our skulls.
On the first, day we stopped every ten minutes to fifteen minutes to hydrate. Hydration was merely the excuse we used, we both had ulterior motives. We both wanted to lighten the water weight that made up over 50% of backpack´s heft. We also wanted to ensure our heart´s were not going to spontaneously combust. Only seconds after resuming from long rest, our heart rate jumped to a lightning speed. There was no controlling it. There was just too little oxygen to let our hearts work at any less the maximum capacity. After only five and half hours of hiking, we arrived our camp. With uncontrollable headaches and sunburned faces, we pitched a tent and settled in. The effort of bending over was weighed carefully against the inevitable head-rush that would take control for at least 30 seconds.
The pot of rice and vegetables look most appealing immediately before we realized we brought no utensils. Our appetites quickly took precedent and we watched the sun set far below us as we feasted off our grit covered hands. If we had read the symptoms for altitude sickness, we would know that the speed of digestion drops off exponentially. We also would have know that a common symptom is sleeplessness. Again, comforted by our ignorance we settled in for restless night. The accent to the peak began at 1 AM

How it All Begins

Once the headache´s set in, it becomes the only focus. The world around me slips away. The hiking becomes secondary. All of my energy is focus on the inhale and the exhale. At 15,000 feet, breathing becomes a discipline. The commonly thoughtless act becomes a conscious effort. I find myself questioning what I am doing half way up an 19,101 foot, active volcano with less then two days of acclimation in modest elevation. I´d like to say that I was prepared. I´d like to say I trained for this. I wish I could say I knew what I was getting myself into. But I think of myself as an honest man so I admit with humility that El Misti chewed me up and spit me out.
A mere 12 hours prior, Ian and I sit in the office of Quechua Explorer staring at poster of Mount Everest.
"No Problem!" I say to Ian nodding at the poster, "El Misti today, Everest tomorrow." Thoughts of Krakauer´s Into Thin Air flashed through my head. What´s the worst that could happen, I thought as a you Peruvian woman named Sylvia settled in behind the office desk. We entered the office to hire guide to bring us up the volcano that towered of Arequipa. We had read in the our guide book that it was the easiest accent of a mountain its size. My selective focus allowed me to focus on one word and one word alone...easy.
"60 dollars?" I gawked, in my awkward Spanish. "Per person?" I spit out in disgust. The dream of ascending El Misti was quickly slipping away. I looked at Ian and without saying anything I knew that our combined frugality would not allow us to splurge on the expedition. Not ready to see this day old dream slip away, I asked the only other logical question.
"How much without a guide? How much for ride only to mountain?" I asked, looking for a glimpse of understanding hoping she could translate what could only be associated to Spanish in the loosest of terms. She pause for a minute, realizing what cheap grigo´s we were.
"30 dollars for both," Sylvia said, seeing her opportunity to make the sale quickly fleeting. I looked at Ian. He gave me a nod. We were hooked. We had just booked ourselves a deal for a leisurely stroll up El Misti.

Friday, October 30, 2009

Adventure´s in Arequipa






The Plaza de Armas in Arequepa became our central resting place. Each tour of the city was bookended by a rest in the park. The block-wide plaza was home to a large fountain, communal meeting point of local Peruvian and pigeons adoringly pecking away at the bountiful feed sold by vendors. The city was surrounded by the a never-ending maze of canyons, three daunting volcanoes and sprawling desert with endless volcanic dust. We started off our explorations with a tour of the some churches and religious centers. The dated structure evoke awe in there enormity and grandiosity but the unquestioned catholic commitment leaves me with a bad taste. The endurance of architecture of the 400 year old city is only emphasized by survival of a volcano eruption sweeping away part of the city. The building seem to reflect the same altitude of endurance that is evident in Peruvians.
We quickly are loured into a tourist booking agency with prospect of rock climbing in the canyonous outskirts of the city. After renting gear, we meet a local guide that has plans to climb with his friend in the morning. Inviting us along, he offers us all the services of a guide but with no expectation of money. After find a hostel that is immediately upstairs from the agency. We eat our third meal ofChifa (Chinese in Spanish...I´ll explain in a later post) and rest for the next days adventure.The next morning, we take a cab through the city with the guide pointing out historical attractions and the driver acting in solidarity with the rest of traffic by refusing to use a turn signal at any of the dozens of turns. We walk out from the edge of town and wander through a raw materials mining area to a 200 ft cliff. The volcanic rock is beautifully alluring with its jagged holds and offers precarious assurance that these holds will not crystallize in our hands. I take first lead on the rock. On first inspection. I grab a large parturition of rock and pull myself off the ground, or at least that was my intention. The large chunk of rock detaches for the cliff and leaves stumbling away from the rock face. The guide looks nonchalant and acts as if it the normal start to the climb. As it turns out, this seemed to be the case. I let out a nervous laugh and say to Ian
"At least I know what I getting myself into." I turn back to the cliff and proceed by placing more pieces of protection than my usually adrenaline seeker self is used to. "The goal of this cliff was to climb faster then the falling rocks." I joked to Ian after my climb. The unique rock provided an exciting climbing experience that I would be inclined to return to soon. But I must follow my mother advice when she told me to try everything at least once. It was either that or make sure you stay safe. Sometimes it´s hard to recall motherly advice.
Arequipa lies at 7,550 feet. It is the perfect stopping off point to acclimate to the higher elevations around Peru. It is suggested that travelers spend at least two days here to avoid the altitude sickness that can occur in cities likePuno , the city tucked in the major port of Lake Titicaca. We of course read this after our time in Arequipa. We spent adequate time to adjust to a city likePuno, but not for adventure we had in store. We took a seat on a bench in La Plaza de Armas. We rested our bodies from hiking and climbing of the day. We flipped open our guide book to get some information about the towering volcano looming just north of the city. The brief description left us with more questions then answers. These answers would not come from a book, they would not come from a guide, they were our motivation. They were sought after. They were left to be discovered.

Monday, October 26, 2009

Wake up in a Dream

I squint my eyes to check if they are working. It is pitch dark. The light of a passing truck ensures me my vision still works. Confusion sets in as I am jostled for a deep sleep. I begin searching for clues to reveal how long I have been asleep. Or am I still dreaming. It is too dark. Too quite. I peer around the seat in front of me. A blink green digital clock flashes 12:00. Each flash taunts my curiosity. The blinking doesn´t change but it slowly erodes me sanity.
The bus floats through a mountain pass with mountains loom over the bus n both sides. This sixteen hour bus ride from Lima to Arequipa turns from a sleeper bus ride to a catastrophic containment. The only certainly I can cling to is we are bound by a goal. With each passing minute I am closer to my destination. But with each passing moment, the clock continues to strip away my sanity.
I must to anything to slow the blinking of the clock. My eyes are glued to it. It tells me time is passing but with no context it has the opposite effect than desired. I am left with no judgment of reality based on my surroundings. Is it my surroundings or is it me?
It is not the darkness that leaves me with no concrete reality.
It is my mind.
I will not give into the clock. I take charge of my sanity. I drop my footrest, pull my recliner lever and slop into an uneasy slumber. I will dream away my nightmare.

I again awake into another dream. The widows are light with a hazy white glow. The bus rocks gently as it passes through thick clouds. It winds gently atop a narrow road. The road winds through a rolling mountainous pass with a gray sand complementing the hazy glow of the cloud. The mystic landscape seamlessly is framed by the mountainous surrounding. The cloud impede a clear view of the mountain-tops. The valley is surrounded by unlimited elevation all around. The clouds part the mountains a grant access to our bus. The road dips and rises, perfectly bisecting the cloud bottom and gravelly earth below. The majestic landscape again forces me to question reality over again. The landscape acts as a blank canvas that encourages imagination from all that look upon it. The path climbs and descends three mountain rages. My sanity, perspective and discourse fluctuate accordingly.

A Gentle Transition

The Cab Drive´s eyes spent more time glued to the radio display and his cell phone the on the road. The car sped away from the airport in Lima with a chaotic serenity. The cabbie spewed broken English much faster then he could handle. Ian and I clutched the back seat of the cab and focused on the driver to distract us from the potential accident perpetually occurring at every no-single pass and careless text message.
"I love country!!¨ The drive exclaims turning to look at the two wide eyed patrons clinging to the back of each seat. "What is your favorite type of music?" he asks us, furiously pecking at his cellphone. "I have it all." He begins to list his extensive range of music which included Kenny Chesney, Dolly Parton and Toby Keith. Even with comprehension of the language we didn´t share a common definition with meaning of "having it all".
I could only assume that the Cabbie assume we were flat out racists. Not by anything that we were doing but the cursed skin and American look on our face. Mr. Cab Driver felt it was necessary to take the long way around Lima to show us the groups of white tourists.
"See, See!" he said excitedly pointing at a group of preppy white tourists walking along the stony seaside. "I told you there were lots of Gringo´s like you." I felt much more comfortable having left my KKK mask at home as it was clearly evident just at a glance to tell I disdained diversity.
Our vehicular tour of Lima was not just limited to a comprehensive list of white hangouts. He was also inclined to highlight every attraction that we would already have available to use in the U.S. Prior this cab ride I thought I would have to experience Peruvian culture. I thought I might have to meet new people. I was was concerned I might have to experience something new. Luckily, thanks to the Cabbie, I found a way to experience Lima that would make me feel as comfortable as being in strip mall in NJ.
But alas, I will do the unexpected. I will try something new. I have vowed to super-size every meal I eat at McDonalds!

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Reading This Blog May be Hazardous to Your Health

Welcome to Part 2 of the Vagabond Blog Series. For Vagabond Thailand please click here vagabondthailand.blogspot.com

*The Disclaimer*

Everything that will be written in this blog will be some facsimile of the truth. Extravagant embellishment should not just be tollerated, they should be expected. It is the only requirement of Vagabond Peru posts.

I will update as often as possible. That being said, if I am without internet, I cannot post, so don't be concerned by inconsistencies.

Please make comments to any posts as you see fit...I enjoy them

Please follow the blog...It motivates me to write more

Please enjoy...

A Journey Begins

The dryer comes to rest with the lapse of its cycle. The clothes, tangled, warm, clean, await the methodical folding and hanging that inevitably follows. The light splashes in on the clothes as the door is pulled open. The inside-out sleeve of a knit polo tangles around the leg of a boot-cut khaki and clings furiously with the aid of static electricity. To the clothes, this is like any other wash. Like all that have taken place previous and all that are soon to come. But the man pulling the clothes out of the dryer knows the truth. The man takes extra care to crease each item. He ensures the seams are in just the right place. The man hangs each item carefully, with care, with an additional precision that is typically lost to monotony. The clothes are unaware of the separation that will come between them and the man. The laundry hangs in the closet, as it always does. Nothing is different. They know nothing of the adventures they are about to miss. But why would a shirt know such a thing? Why would a sock care of lands unexplored?

The clothes are left to hang in the closet. They know nothing of the man's adventures, but the man knows little more.

A bag is packed...
A flight is boarded...
A journey begins...
Peru awaits